Versace is currently in a transitional phase as the fashion house waits for the arrival of its newly appointed creative director, Pieter Mulier. The Italian label, which was acquired by the Prada Group and Mrs P in December, has not presented a new runway collection since the departure of Dario Vitale, who left after a single, well‑received show.
New campaign signals a pause in design output
On July 30 the brand unveiled a fresh advertising effort, released exclusively to Dazed, that continues the “Versace Obsessed” series. The images, shot by veteran photographer Steven Meisel and overseen by creative director Ferdinando Verderi, echo the aesthetic of the spring‑summer 2026 campaign. Models are photographed from above, arranged on the floor beside rare books and magazine covers from the 1990s and 2000s that form part of the label’s archival material.
The campaign’s visual language leans heavily on the house’s historic motifs. According to the accompanying release, the goal is to blend “the grit and glamour, the divine and dirty, classicism and the street.” By revisiting its own archives, Versace appears to be reinforcing the brand identity established by founders Gianni and Donatella Versace while it awaits Mulier’s debut collection, slated for February 2027.
Timeline of leadership changes
He began his tenure on July 1, marking just under a month in the position as of this writing. The previous creative lead, Dario Vitale, had only presented a single collection before exiting, leaving the house without a defined design direction for several months.
During this interim, the brand has refrained from attributing the new campaign to any specific designer, highlighting the transitional nature of the period. The decision to hold off on a runway show until early 2027 suggests a strategic pause, allowing Mulier time to develop a cohesive vision that aligns with the label’s storied past.
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From a broader perspective, such a hiatus is not unusual for luxury houses undergoing ownership changes. The pause gives the incoming director space to assess the brand’s existing DNA, consult with key stakeholders, and outline a roadmap that can satisfy both heritage expectations and contemporary market demands. This approach can help smooth the handover and mitigate potential disruptions in the brand’s seasonal calendar.
What to watch for in 2027
Industry observers will be looking for cues in Mulier’s first collection that indicate how he intends to balance the “grit and glamour” narrative with his own design sensibilities. The campaign’s reliance on archival elements may hint at a continued emphasis on heritage, but the upcoming runway will reveal whether new silhouettes, materials, or thematic directions will emerge.
Stay tuned.
Until then, the house remains in a state of limbo, with no new runway pieces announced and the recently launched campaign serving as the primary visual communication. Fans and investors alike will be monitoring official channels for further updates, especially as the February 2027 show approaches.
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