Francis Kurkdjian, the creator of Baccarat Rouge 540, prefers to let his work speak for itself. As he says, quoting French playwright and novelist Françoise Sagan, “the piece was self-explanatory,” and he believes no additional layers or stories are necessary.
Despite his reluctance, Kurkdjian has had to discuss his work extensively due to its immense popularity. His fragrance, Baccarat Rouge 540, was commissioned by the renowned French crystal manufacturer Baccarat to mark the brand’s 250th anniversary in 2013.
Kurkdjian was given complete freedom to create the scent, and he took inspiration from the crystal-making process and the color red. The result was a fragrance that was initially supposed to be a limited run but became a huge success after Kelly St John, then vice-president of beauty at Neiman Marcus, fell in love with it and asked Kurkdjian to produce more.
Baccarat Rouge 540 has since become one of the best-selling luxury fragrances in the world, becoming a pop culture symbol of luxury, status, and conspicuous consumption. It has been name-checked by pro basketball and NFL players, referenced in songs by rappers like Drake and Meek Mill, and is a favorite among celebrities like Rihanna and Olivia Rodrigo.
Kurkdjian breaks down the reasons for its success, citing the name Baccarat, which relates to royalty, aristocracy, and luxury. He also points to the color red, which is associated with power and extravagance. The fragrance itself, with notes of jasmine, Ambroxan, and cedar, is both sweet and musky, making it a hit among perfume enthusiasts.
The scent has been described as smelling like “a new Porsche that happens to be filled with cotton candy” by journalists on the scene, while Olivia Rodrigo compares it to what an angel might naturally smell like. However, it’s not without its critics, with some likening the smell to latex gloves, burnt plastic, or the dentist’s office.
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Kurkdjian’s goal was not to create a sexy perfume but to translate the feeling of something dense and luminous. He sees where the claims of sexiness come from, citing the combination of saltiness and sweetness in the fragrance, which can be addictive.
Baccarat Rouge 540 has spawned an empire, with various products like extrait, hair mist, body lotion, and candle following in its wake. A documentary, ICON(S): Maison Francis Kurkdjian, explored the cultural impact of the fragrance, while a multisensory installation inspired by Baccarat Rouge 540 debuted at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris.
In 2025, the brand launched the Édition Millésime of the perfume, an ultra-limited edition that costs $28,000 each due to the inclusion of real ambergris and a specially crafted red crystal flacon. Kurkdjian emphasizes that the perfume is meant to be used and worn, not just collected, with a refillable service and dedicated hotline for owners.
Kurkdjian finds inspiration in fashion and beauty, and he talks about beautiful food, people, and times of the year. He refuses to take negative concepts or emotions as inspiration, aiming to enhance people’s lives with his perfumes.
It is a way for people to connect with each other.
Kurkdjian’s inspirations also come from his daily life, and he leaves the discussion of his legacy or the impact of Baccarat Rouge 540 to critics, preferring to stay humble and focused on his work. They continue to create new fragrances and products, always aiming to bring something new and exciting to the market.
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