Fashion and art have long been intertwined, with designers drawing inspiration from the work of renowned artists. The connection between these two disciplines is the focus of a new exhibition at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum (V&A), which celebrates the groundbreaking work of Italian designer Elsa Schiaparelli.
The exhibition, titled “Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art,” presents Schiaparelli’s work as a catalyst for change, challenging traditional notions of beauty and clothing. It explores how her bold and often provocative designs can alter our perceptions of the status quo and beauty standards.
Elsa Schiaparelli was a pioneer in the fashion world, surrounding herself with artists like Man Ray, Jean Cocteau, and Salvador Dali. According to the V&A’s senior curator of fashion, Sonnet Stanfill, Schiaparelli was embedded in the creative process, engaging in a true collaborative exchange with these artists and creatives.
Hailing from an intellectual and aristocratic family in Rome, Schiaparelli had no formal fashion training, yet her clothing was often challenging and thought-provoking. While her peers, such as Coco Chanel and Christian Dior, focused on simplicity and beauty, she embraced the unexpected and the shocking, showcasing her unique approach to fashion and culture.
One example of her unconventional approach is a pair of 1938 monkey fur boots, which showcased her willingness to push boundaries. Her designs were akin to those of a standup comedian or a philosopher, often incorporating unexpected elements, such as a shoe that resembled a hat or a circus-themed jacket with horse-shaped buttons.
This methodology has been adopted by Daniel Roseberry, the present-day creative director of Schiaparelli. His boundary-pushing designs, featured in the final room of the exhibition, demonstrate how the idea of an unexpected ensemble can provoke and surprise, moving fashion and pop culture forward.
A couture model clutching a robot baby or a crisis-red gown with a bodice dense with beads are just a few examples of Roseberry’s designs that challenge traditional notions of beauty and fashion. These designs, like Schiaparelli’s before them, have the power to change our perceptions and provoke new ideas, much like Elle Fanning‘s approach to feminine style.
The exhibition “Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art” is a testament to the enduring influence of Schiaparelli’s work and her continued relevance in the fashion world today. By pairing her work with that of Roseberry, the exhibition highlights the value of shocking style in a moment of conservatism and the importance of creative exchange between artists and designers.
As the fashion world continues to evolve, the work of Schiaparelli and Roseberry serves as a reminder of the power of fashion to challenge and subvert traditional notions of beauty and culture, with designers considering factors like whether to choose a high or low setting for their designs.
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